What helps with large pores

"Mirror, mirror on the wall..." Since I passed the magic thirty and have come to terms with the first wrinkles, looking in the mirror points out another "flaw": The pores on my face are getting bigger and bigger. In addition to the age-related loss of elasticity, there are other factors that cause a coarse-pored complexion. In this interview, dermatologist Kathrin Bänziger reveals what these are and what you can do about them.

What is the function of pores?
Kathrin Bänziger: Pores are the excretory ducts of the sebaceous glands. As the name suggests, they are sebum-producing glands. Sebum consists of a mixture of fats and proteins and has a protective function: it prevents the skin from drying out and creates an acidic environment that fends off pathogens.

What are the causes of large pores?
We talk about large or coarse pores when the aforementioned excretory ducts are dilated. The degree to which they develop depends not only on external environmental influences such as sunlight, excessive nicotine and alcohol consumption, but is also genetically determined. If one or both parents are affected, there is a high probability that your skin will also be coarse-pored.
In addition, an obstruction of the ducts can also favour enlarged pores. Possible causes include incorrect skin care, skin diseases such as "acne vulgaris" or excessive sebum production. This is why people with oily skin tend to have large pores.

What can I do to prevent this from happening?
The right skincare is essential if you produce a lot of sebum or have large pores. Swelling (Editor's note: The skin is temporarily plumped up from the inside with swelling active ingredients) or oily cosmetics can also clog the pores. Non-comedogenic creams or gels - i.e. products that do not contain ingredients that can cause blackheads - are the best choice. Avoid products with vegetable and animal fats as well as mineral oils such as silicone and Vaseline. Study the ingredients before buying a new skincare product. You should also cleanse your face thoroughly every evening. This will remove any make-up and sebum residue.

How do I treat large pores?
Serums or peelings containing retinol have an exfoliating effect. After exfoliating the skin, the skin texture is not only refined, but sebum production is also reduced. As side effects such as irritation and high photosensitivity can occur, caution is advised with retinol. Vitamin A is even completely taboo during pregnancy, as it can harm the unborn child.

There are various "home remedies" circulating on the internet. Is there a no-go?
Yes, I would advise against using household remedies such as baking powder or citric acid mixtures. They can lead to toxic skin damage with severe irritation if used in high doses. Especially in combination with sun exposure.
Make-up should also be kept to a minimum as it clogs the pores in the long term. Instead, use a light tinted day cream or sun cream.

Is there an SOS tip?
Unfortunately, no. However, a short-term effect can be achieved with a fruit acid peel from a dermatologist. As with retinol, caution is advised when using a product containing fruit acid for home use.

What does a fruit acid peel do?
In addition to the short-term effect already mentioned and with repeated use, the chemical peel changes the texture of the skin. It also accelerates skin renewal and reduces inflammation in the case of acne. Two weeks before the treatment in our practice, the patient prepares the skin with a fruit acid cream or lotion to acclimatise it to the acidic pH value. In the practice, we first cleanse and degrease the skin. We then apply the fruit acid peel and neutralise it after a few minutes - the time depends on the strength of the reaction or tolerance - with a neutralising cream and wash it off again.

After two to seven days, the skin will flake off slightly. Sunbathing should be avoided during this time. Sun protection with sun protection factor 50+ and intensive moisturising care are also a must. Depending on the success of the treatment and individual tolerance, the fruit acid peel is repeated after four weeks. A nice side effect: the pores are not only smaller, but the skin is more radiant overall.

Another method of refining large pores is microneedling. Here, the skin is minimally damaged with small pinpricks, which stimulates collagen synthesis and skin renewal. Depending on the intensity of the treatment, redness may be visible during the first three days. Depending on the desired result, microneedling can be repeated monthly.